Crater Lake

August 11-12: Of all the places on the PCT, I was most excited about Crater Lake. I mean, yes, of course the Sierras. They are startlingly beautiful. I had done quite a bit of hiking in the Sierras previously, when I lived in California. But Crater Lake, I had never seen. I tried to go to Crater Lake a long time ago, on a road trip with friends through Oregon. But the road to Crater Lake had been snowed in and we didn't make it. I could not wait to see Crater Lake!

I awoke early to bust out the last 6 miles to Crater Lake. I could get in early, pick up my package, and have a hot breakfast in the restaurant before doing some sightseeing! Those miles went quickly and easily. And once again, through a burn area. Little did I know, there would be more burn areas around Crater Lake before the end of the summer.

Once in the visitor's camping area, things didn't go quite as quickly and easily. The general store was backed up and couldn't get packages for at least 2 hours. The restaurant was backed up -- they were overwhelmed by the large group of Warrior Hikers -- and also had a long wait, for both tables and food. I killed the wait time by standing next to the table of Warrior Hikers and comparing hiking tales. (My favorite Warrior Hiker of all, Mama Goose, had already moved on from the lake. But I did get to talk with Thunder Bunny!) After breakfast-- now brunch -- the store was still having difficulty with the packages, so I showered and found a camp spot. Finally, once I got my package, I was all set to head up to the visitor's center and the lake. Unfortunately, the last shuttle (at 11 am!) had left. So I walked up the trail (so much easier without a pack) and figured I'd get a ride back on the last return shuttle (3 pm).

So finally, I got to lay eyes on Crater Lake. And just as the south bound hikers had promised, it was even more beautiful than the pictures! 

The lake is actually a crater of a volcano that had imploded in upon itself. The island in the middle-- is another cinder cone that grew back out of the crater. And the water was so, so blue! The only place I've ever seen blue so striking would be the Caribbean. But Crater Lake is a deeper blue than the Caribbean. Slightly less green. 

I went to the museum to learn all about how the lake was formed. I went to the visitors center to get post-cards for the kids (and lets me honest, to get my Dr Pepper and ice creak cookie sandwich). And I also go the fire report. It seems there were fires burning all along the trail just north of Crater Lake. And near the Oregon Washington border. And in central Washington. And northern Washington. Fires all over. What's more, at the Crater Lake visitor's center, you could smell smoke. 

Back at the campground, it was hiker central. Many more hikers had arrived while I was up at the lake, quite a few had turned back after attempting to hike out. I talked to Cookie Monster and Morning Star, who had hiked into some pretty thick smoke and turned back. They were hoping the wind would change directions the next day and allow for more comfortable hiking. The trail itself was still open. 

A bunch of us ate dinner at the restaurant, and then built a camp fire at the sites. It was one of the only campfires that we actually had on the trail, because of the dry conditions this year. Some of the RV campers brought over Smore's fixings and we made some s'mores, reclined on the picnic table, and watched the Perseid meteor shower. And then we all retired to our tents at the unheard of late hour of 9:30 pm.

The next day, I zeroed at the lake and took a tour of the lake. Well worth the time to tour! The lake was fantastic, and I was a bit of a minor celebrity on the bus, being a crazy thru-hiker and all! 

The tour allowed not only wonderful views of the lake, but also views of the smoke. It was getting very thick. 

The fires were about 17 miles away -- but even from that distance, you could smell them. And the smoke was sort of stinging the eyes from that distance, too. There was news of lake resort closures north of us. But the trail was still open.  After much though, I decided that I did not want to hike into all of that smoke.  After the tours were over for the day, the shuttle went down to Klamath Falls, and would give rides to town. I decided that I'd head to Klamath Falls, get a train in the morning, and to north past the fire to Bend or Sisters to continue the hike. 

Peace, Love, and Trail Magic!