Where Have All the Hikers Gone?

July 26-29: A funny thing happened after Mt. Shata: the tribe became a lot less crowded with hikers. Maybe it was because people had had enough and ended their hikes. Maybe it was because northern California was turning out to be really hot! Maybe it was because people looked at a map and saw that Ashland, OR was 75 miles away by car and 200 miles by trail and decided to just take a bus. Whatever the case, I found myself alone quite a bit over the next few days. 

Not at first, mind you. I got a ride back to the trail with a couple of section hikers and leap frogged with them and several other thru hikers as we went through Castle Crags park. I especially enjoyed Indiana Jones, a hiker who, after each stop, would resume hiking with the theme song from Raiders of the Lost Ark blasting from his cell phone! 

But fairly soon, the music died away, and I was traipsing along, enjoying the view, and noticing that I was alone for longer and longer stretches. By the time I settled down to camp the first night, it had been hours since I had seen another hiker. And it had gotten cold after we climbed up in elevation! I ate quickly and crawled in my tent, but was joined as the last bit of daylight was draining from the sky by another hiker. He also commented that the trail had seemed especially empty today.

The next day, the solitude deepened. My camping buddy was going south, I went north. I saw scattered hikers, hours apart. It wasn't unpleasant, though. The views were spectacular! The animals were out in full force, handing out, either unafraid or oblivious as I went by. And I had just resupplied so I had lots of good stuff to eat. And, of course, my new shoes. Life was good. The trail was my friend. 

After a while, it did get a bit disconcerting. Where WAS everyone? The second night, I again hadn't seen another person for hours when I settled down to camp. Nobody joined me tonight. And I didn't see or hear anyone go by night hiking. 

The third day was like a twilight zone episode. It was beautiful hike, of course. Nice weather, good temperature. Gorgeous views. 

But I did not see a single person all day. Not one. Not one single person. 

It was weird.

Was there something doing on that I should be aware of? Was the trail closed? Was there a great big party somewhere that everyone else had gone to, but nobody invited me to? Did they not invite me on purpose? Why did nobody like me? 

I don't want to sound paranoid, but I SWEAR it felt like I was being watched!

Late that night, well after I had gone to sleep, I awoke to the sound of someone near my tent. 
"I'm sorry, did I wake you? Are there other spots for tents here?"
"Chef?" I said. "Is that Chef?"
"Yeah. Pink Lady?"
"Yup. And yes, there are lots of flat spots for tents."

The next day, I was up and out while Chef slept in. I saw Dentist and Sunshine (also sleeping in) but then, once again, nobody. Nobody at all until about 3 pm, when Stryker, who I hadn't seen since Kennedy Meadows North, joined me in watering up at a stream.

"Is the trail especially empty?" I asked.
"I haven't noticed." he said. "I has some friends join me at Mt Shasta for a few days and we're ready to kill each other."
Just then his friends showed up, and the four of them took off like they were in some kind of speed challenge. 
​
It was back to me,myself, and I. 

I finally reached the road crossing to Etna about 4:30 pm. I had seen 6 people all day. 2 of them asleep.

I was kind of nervous about getting a ride into town; the road looked pretty deserted. And there was no cell service. But I went to the edge of the road and within 10 minutes, I was in the back seat of a dilapidated car with three wet dogs, on my way to Etna!